Leslie Baumann, M.D. is internationally known for her contributions to the field of cosmetic dermatology. She founded the University of Miami Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute in 1997- the first academic institute in the US dedicated to cosmetic dermatology. She also served as Professor of Dermatology at the University of Miami, Miller School of Medicine until 2006 when the Institute became independent from the University and the name changed to the Baumann Cosmetic and Research Institute.

IMCAS Academy gets to know her a little better.

When did you know you wanted to work in cosmetic dermatology?

When I was in my 20s, I was a fan of entrepreneurs in the skincare world and I collected vintage advertisements and skincare products; therefore, dermatology was a natural choice for me. When I was at The University of Texas I would read all of the biographies about Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubenstein, Estee Lauder, Charles Revson, Mary Kay and all of the other great skincare entrepreneurs. I did my internship in Pediatrics where I became very interested in atopic dermatitis and dry skin research. After I started my dermatology residency, Botox was introduced as a treatment for wrinkles. When I was offered the position to direct the Division of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997, I happily accepted and remained on faculty there for 13 years. It really was a natural progression based on my interest in science, ingredients, dry skin, moisturizer technology and my love for skincare industry history.

What do you consider to be your biggest career achievement so far?

In 2000 I wrote the first textbook in the world dedicated to cosmetic dermatology, and Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice (McGraw Hill) is still an international bestseller and has been reprinted in multiple languages. It is funny to see how thin the book is because at the time there were not as many treatment options as we have now. For example, there is not a chapter on lasers nor lights nor any information on body contouring.

It has been so gratifying to be a part of the birth of a huge industry: Injectables. When I was asked to perform the FDA research trials for the approval of Botox for glabellar frown lines in 1998, I had no idea that it was the beginning of a long and rewarding career. Since then I have been involved in the development of almost every injectable aesthetic device in the USA and have travelled around the world training other doctors to perform these procedures.

What is the most rewarding part of your job and what is the hardest?

The most rewarding part of my job is helping people look their best. I spend a lot of time teaching them about the underlying science so that they will make better decisions about which procedures to do. The great part is that I have been a dermatologist for about 20 years now so I have witnessed my patients aging gracefully. I get most of my referrals from patients who hear from others, “Your skin looks amazing! What do you do?” I love seeing the look on their face when I hold up the mirror after treating them with injectable fillers. They are often astonished with the results. I also love treating their teenagers and grandchildren for acne and watching them grow up.

I don’t like dealing with patients who have unrealistic expectations or want me to do something that I do not think is right for them. I have been in practice long enough to know not to let a patient talk me into something that I do not feel is a good idea for them. Sometimes they get upset and go to another doctor but I feel that it is my job to tell them the truth even when they do not want to hear it.

Which three words define cosmetic dermatology for you?

Artistry, Innovation, Customer Service

What question do patients ask you most often?

The most common question I get from patients is “What skincare products should I be using?” That’s why I started a turnkey science- and education-based retail system designed to help doctors sell skincare in their offices. I look for the latest skincare technologies from companies around the world and test them on patients with various skin types. I then chose the best products from various brands and combine them to create a customized skincare regimen for the patient.

What do you feel is the biggest misconception about your field?

Other doctors think cosmetic medicine is easy and not “real medicine.” It is not easy at all. Each person’s face is very different so you have to go through the analysis of the face each time and customize a treatment plan for the individual patient. Each patient is treated very differently. A cookbook approach is not the way to get natural looking results. It’s a misconception that all cosmetic doctors are capable of performing the wide array of treatments that are available today. Injectables in particular require skill and an artistic eye to produce natural looking results. I see a lot of patients after they have been to other doctors and had a poor result. They often know they look off but they are not sure why. In many cases, it is just a mm of difference here and there that is affecting the beauty of the face. Unlike a disease such as psoriasis where the same drug can be prescribed each time, cosmetic medicine demands a customized approach for each patient.

Which medical advancement / invention would you have liked to have made?

I wish I had invented hyaluronic acid fillers. I had the idea to do an injectable HA filler for facial rejuvenation when I heard orthopedic surgeons were doing it in joints in the late 1990s. I went to file a patent and found out that they were already working on it in Switzerland. Actually this is what led to me start writing my Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice textbook for McGraw Hill. I decided to research what other injectables and cosmetic procedures had been invented and my notes turned into first textbook, which is now available in 9 languages.

What do you see on the horizon for cosmetic dermatology?

I think non-invasive body-contouring treatments are going to continue to expand. Energy-based fat-melting treatments such as Zeltiq, UltraShape and Liposonix opened the doors. These technologies are becoming more powerful and more targeted and much faster. There are many new innovations in body sculpting. In fact, the approval of Kybella for submental fullness was a game changer. I expect to see similar injectable treatments that will effectively target other areas of the body. I believe that we will combine these modalities and use the machines such as Ultrashape Power in conjunction with deoxycholic acid injections in the not-so-distant future. I live in Miami Beach where people are in bathing suits year-round so body countering is a big business here.

What is your definition of beauty?

Facial beauty to me is healthy even-toned skin overlying a symmetrical facial bone structure punctuated by at least one interesting facial feature. I like to identify the interesting facial feature first and make sure that fillers are used to enhance that feature and balance the rest of the face. This method makes the face both beautiful and memorable.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Be consistent. You don’t have to accomplish a lot in one day, instead accomplish one or two things every day. If you have a goal and you work consistently towards it, you will reach it if you stay focused.

What is a cause you care about?

I am passionate about helping underprivileged kids with acne. They already have so much going against them such as less access to education, fewer networking opportunities, and fewer mentors that I think it is awful that they also have the self-esteem issues that come with acne. I am working with various foundations to try and deliver acne treatments to less fortunate kids.

What would people be surprised to learn about you?

I love to take online courses and I like to study all types of topics like French literature, 19th century history, opera, music theory and art history. I read constantly and enjoy books of every type. I cook almost every night and like to invent recipes. I have a beautiful garden full of fruit trees and herbs. I want to take a botany or architecture class next.

Watch some of Dr Baumann's presentations on Choosing the Proper Face Cosmeceuticals and Causes of Skin Aging on IMCAS Academy now.