Objectives: The literature is full of reports claiming to describe inhibitors (and more recently stimulators) of melanin synthesis and transfer. This talk will provide understanding of how modulation of skin pigmentation can be approached from several levels in terms of melanin synthesis (amount and subtype), transfer to keratinocytes, distribution within different epidermis strata and ultimate melanin fate. This talk with review our recent work in this area.
Introduction: Melanin is synthesized by melanocytes in the epidermis basal layer, and when transferred to keratinocytes is the key ultraviolet radiation-protective biopolymer responsible for skin pigmentation. However, most melanin is seen only in the proliferative basal layer and only sparsely above this. The latter has been explained (without convincing evidence) as 'melanin degradation' in suprabasal layers. We have recently re-evaluated how melanin is distribution in human epidermis under normal and stress conditions. Our new understanding allows us to reassess how melanin levels can be modulated.
Materials / method: Using skin tissues derived from normal healthy individuals of different skin phototype, and cell cultures derived from these tissues for standard bioscience experimental analysis.
Results: We have recently revisited the need to develop a new generation of safe topical ingredients, with cosmetic and therapeutic potential (vitiligo, Pityriasis alba etc.). We have identified a novel way to modulate the epidermal-melanin unit function, by mimicking a growth factor that stimulates melanogenesis and melanin transfer. Specifically, we have identified small peptide mimics of BMP6, by interrogating the binding site of BMP6 with its receptor. After cytotoxicity assessment in vitro, we have evaluated these in aqueous-soluble and topical form using pigmented human skin equivalents.
Conclusion: Some of these peptides exhibited the ability to increase melanogenesis when topically applied in a 3-D human skin model, and we believe that this technology offers significant benefits over the currently available technology. We are currently investigating whether these molecules may be modified to have the reverse activity on this melanogenesis pathway.
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