Objectives: 1. determine the mode of action of 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine (2-MNG) and it’s performance in vitro and in vivo regarding prevention of UV induced immediate darkening, as well as neo-melanin production (delayed tanning).
2. To demonstrate efficacy of a new complementary combination of active ingredients including 2-MNG, Niacinamide , Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid (exfoliation), 1H-Purine-2,6-dione, 3,7-dihydro-1,3,7-trimethyl and Lipohydroxy acid.
Introduction: Hyperpigmentation disorders affect over 50% of world-wide population and they impact the quality of life, causing significant psychological burden for patients. Consumers worldwide are thus looking for personalization in treatments to answer more accurately to their specific needs. A new active ingredient, 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine (2-MNG) presenting potentialities in melanin precursors chelation, has recently been revealed in vitro as providing high performances on hyperpigmentation control1 as well as in vivo in different phototypes and disorders.
Materials / method: Studies were carried out either in vitro on melanocyte, as well as in vivo following UV-daylight exposures on volunteers with phototype III/IV/V originate from Southeast Asia in order to determine the mode of action of 2-MNG. The clinical efficacy of a formulation containing 2-MNG was investigated over 8 weeks on women aged 18-60 years old, of phototypes I to VI presenting different disorders (solar lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, PIH). Participants applied the treatment twice daily, before the SPF product application, for eight weeks with baseline measurements and after 56 days.
Results: In vitro investigations revealed that 2-MNG is a structure, interacting with melanin precursors, avoiding them to be integrated into growing eumelanin and phaeomelanin. This mode of action was showed to be very favorable for melanocytes safety by reducing reactive species across melanocytes environment.In vivo dose revealed versus vehicle under UV daylight exposure, to prevent immediate darkening, either to reduce neo-melanin production. A significant decrease of melanin production by 27% in density and volume and a statistically significant improvement of visible spots versus baseline.
Conclusion: 2-MNG is a new molecule displaying high efficacy in managing melanin production, with no compromise on melanocyte safety in vitro. Its unique mode of action lead to a high clinical performance, either on prevention of skin darkening or inhibition of delayed tanning with no adverse effects, improving the overall performance of brightening.
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Este trabalho foi realizado com o patrocínio de: L'OREAL
