Objectives: To give an update topical on depigmentation by cosmeceuticals for melasma
Introduction: The effective and sustainably successful management of melasma is a difficult task. An advanced understanding of the pathogenesis of melasma and the signaling routs of melanogenesis is required. Topicals such as cosmeceuticals can play an important role not only as pre- and post-treatment tools, but can also -and certainly in combination protocols- serve as effective in-clinic treatment options.
Materials / method: In melasma, hyperactive melanocytes not only overproduce melanin but they also accumulate melanin resulting in unwanted hyperpigmentation and dermatological diseases such as melasma. Complex scientific data shows today that there are several signaling pathways by which different cell types upregulate or downregulate melanogenesis. But also that there are other contributors to this unwanted skin discoloration such as e.g. new vessel formation, inflammation and oxidation etc..
Results: Therefore, modern concepts of treating melasma topically must target all the various and different pathway causing this diseases. Even with cosmeceuticals ‘only’ one can be quite effective and be on the safe side, especially in treating light melasma or in managing recurrent melasma on the long term.
Conclusion: Modern concepts for treating melasma topically have to target all the various and different pathways causing this disease. This said, cosmeceuticals are an indispensable tool especially to be combined in e.g. pre- and post-procedure protocols but can be very useful also in treating especially light melasma or in managing recurrent melasma on the long term.
Dr Sabine Zenker, Munich, September 7th, 2022
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