Objectives: The purpose of this study was to examine whether the anti-aging potential of Retinaldehyde could be enhanced by combining it with natural retinol analogs without compromising its favorable skin irritation profile.
Introduction: Although retinoids remain the treatment of choice for photoaging, their beneficial effects are gradual and progressive and are compromised by unfavorable irritation potentials. Considering this, we hypothesized that the anti-photoaging potential of the retinoid acid precursor Retinaldehyde (RAL) could be enhanced by combining it with two plant-derived retinoid analogs, Bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), which have themselves been shown to deliver retinoid-like anti-aging benefits without side-effects.
Materials / method: Gene expression profiling of full thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology in vitro. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model, was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept, open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-aging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-aging ingredients.
Results: In vitro, RAL in combination with BAK or VAE potentiated the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. This combination also reversed UV-induced damage in an ex vivo model of photoaging. In vivo it led to the rapid reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvements to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%) observed within 28 days of use. Notably, the number of wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects.
Conclusion: Using a translational approach to cosmetic development we have shown how the anti-aging effects of RAL can be enhanced by combining it with the natural retinol analogues BAK and VAE, without affecting the preferential safety profile of RAL. Reductions in clinical signs of aging and photodamage are observed within one month of once daily use, making it a highly effective and well-tolerated alternative treatment for photoaging.
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